I dined at Toutankhamun, on the river bank just north of the ferries. I last visited them 3 years ago with John and others. It has not been open since!
They now have a riverside terrace where I could sit and watch the boats. The felluca captains climbing the mast to secure the sails in the dark is one of life's more interesting scenes.
They serve a set menu of bread, mixed salad, baba gannouch, main course, rice, cauliflower cheese (they called it cornflower but I guessed what they meant), mixed vegetables, green beans, so I had the fresh grilled Nile perch as my main course.
The portions (apart from the fish) were enormous - they would easily have served two or three - and I had fresh orange juice, small bottle of water, and Bedouin coffee. LE65 seemed very reasonable at such a beautiful venue. The food was good, although the hot food arrived much too soon after the salads. I skipped the lentil soup that was offered as part of the menu. Only one cat tried to interrupt my meal, without success. I was the only customer between 1900 and 2100 approx. The only downside was the lack of a 'license', but this was understandable with the recent tightening of controls, and the owner did take time for evening prayers during my visit.
The walk from Sheherezade to Tutankhamun and back was interesting - I was expecting an increase of hassle, but very few people approached me and they all accepted no by wishing me a good day (like most Big Issue sellers in the UK). Mostly I am recognised as a regular in Qurna/Beirat and everyone knows that I am Tayeeb's friend. It is almost as though the 'touts' have been trained and now understand that hassle is counter-productive.