Because the QV44, the Tomb of Titi, is currently closed, QV43 is offered as an alternative so that the tourists do not complain too much.
The rain came more or less as forecast. Three showers at about 7, 8 and 9pm. Not enough to wet the ground, but a few big drops each time. So no obvious disruption.
Today I took my exercise for a month. The steps into this tomb are steep and numerous, but fortunately there is a good handrail most of the way. Photography being banned, and as I knew that this tomb is well photographed on Osirisnet, I did not take any pictures inside. The Western Valley, or Valley of the Monkeys is easily reached by car from the ticket office at the Valley of the Kings, although many drivers will tell you that it is closed because they do not want to drive up the rough road for 2km. The main tombs here are of Ay and Amenhotep III, but the latter is closed indefinitely for conservation. We glimpsed the entrance to it. The tomb of Ay, near the head of the valley, comprises a steep entrance stairway of some 20 steps to get to the metal gate. After this, uninscribed corridors and a steep staircase bring you to the burial chamber. There is one further, uninscribed chamber beyond the burial chamber. But the burial chamber is well decorated, most of the damage being confined to the cartouches as Ay was associated with the 'heretic' Akhenaten. The fine carved sarcophagus, complete with lid, takes centre stage, the protective goddesses at the four corners being particularly well carved. It was until recently in the Cairo museum, and has apparently been placed in the wrong orientation, the head being at the foot end, and vice versa. The scenes on the walls are bold, with large clear hieroglyphs. There is not a large amount of text, only one wall being mainly columns of inscriptions. The two walls on either side of the coffin have various scenes, with the participants being named. The fourth wall is inscribed with the pictures of twelve baboons, each with a name. I am reminded of the 12 baboons in the tomb of Tutankhamun, as seen in my books. Helen commented that the green colour of the baboons was similar to the monkeys at Knossos, on Crete, which were painted probably a few years earlier. I suspect the green here is more likely a link to Osiris, who is usually depicted in a similar shade. On the way back down the valley we noticed KV22, the Tomb of Amenhotep III. This is currently closed for conservation. Work here is ongoing, and even stopping nearby is discouraged. A UNESCO report of the conservation has been published online. It is a large (51MB) pdf file, but very well worth looking at for the photography as well as the text. "Conservation of the Wall Paintings in the Royal Tomb of Amenophis III - First and Second Phases Report". Download from here. Today we were shown around this site, from the Collossi of Memnon to the Mortuary Temple of Merenptah and beyond. The size of this site, along with the palace at Malqata, is indicative of the importance of The Sun King.
Today I visited the Christian cemetery behind St. Theodore's monastery, as well as catching some different birds. If anyone wishes to join us out here, there are good priced flights from Gatwick and Manchester departing Wed 28 Dec or Wed 4 Jan, and returning Wed 11 Jan. About £260 return including luggage but excluding meal and transfer. Accommodation is available everywhere and
We spent some time at the Ramesseum, with the light at a good angle for highlighting the reliefs on the inside walls of the pylons. Some pictures have now been added.
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February 2023
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