Having sorted out the problem with my outgoing email over breakfast, I headed for the Valley of the Queens at 11:30 so that Tayaeb could get to Friday prayers from 12:00 to 13:00. A couple of small coaches and taxis in the car park, so I was expecting a quiet visit. The usual hassle between the ticket office and the security point. The track up the valley was empty, not a tourist in sight. Nefertari's tomb was as usual roped off, and I noticed the large ducts, presumably for environment control. I hope that they were operating. QV52, the tomb of Queen Titi, was very disappointing. Very little undamaged inscription in this small tomb. As I was leaving, the hordes started to arrive - loud-mouthed English who were moaning about being asked for baksheesh as they had already payed to visit the VotQ. I think that most were with Thomas Cook, so had probably paid a large amount for a morning whistle-stop tour of the West Bank. One was threatening to kick the next one to hassle him in the b******s - and no, that is not buttocks. So I strolled up to the seating next to the tomb of Amonhopshef. The first party had already gone in, so I sat down and waited. I was in no hurry. The next coachload duly came by and crowded in. The third were not far behind, but had to wait as the tomb was overcrowded. The fourth also, came, saw nothing, and rushed off, presumably for lunch. A small group of 3 went in, and finally I descended the short flight of steps. I like the VotQ because there are very few steps - it is easy walking. Of course I was not allowed to take any photographs in QV55, so will not bore you with a complete set of pictures of all decoration and inscriptions in this most well preserved of tombs. The colours here are vivid and very little is damaged. I did not even get a picture of the foetus that was found in this tomb. It is thought to be of a sibling of Amonhopshef who was miscarried when the prince died, and was buried with him. The guardian was appreciative of the moderate baksheesh for his cooperation. Outside the Antiquities police were tucking in to a tasty looking salad lunch, but I decided not to join them. The valley now being deserted, I did not need to wait before entering the other tomb that is open to the public - that of Khaemwast (QV44). This is another superbly preserved tomb, once again with a sign saying "no photos" so I am unable to provide a complete pictorial record. Since I was here 5 years ago, the perspex panels protecting the walls have been cleaned. With no tourists, the Antiquities Service must have had some time for housekeeping! The picture here shows what photographs would have been like if they were allowed. So, after nearly two hours in the valley, and running the gauntlet of the few shopkeepers in the mini-souk who remained open after the tourist coaches had left, I was ready for lunch. While waiting for Tayaeb, a shopkeeper who is yet another abd el-Rassoul dug in his pot of 'genuine antiquities' and made me a present of some because I knew his father. While this small hoard looked good, especially the shabti pieces, I am sure that they were recently manufactured - at least the ones he gave me. And then everyone wanted to change English coins to Egyptian: the tourists must have paid with them, and banks do not change coin. I was not willing to pay the official rate, but made a small profit by offering only 75%. It is good to beat the system occasionally. I had not been to Pharaohs Hotel in Habu City for 5 years, although it is a favourite of Tayaeb's. We found a cool shady corner in the garden to share some Stellas and chat for several hours. The chef here worked at the Sheraton for many years until he retired aged 60. He is very good, so I could not resist some deep-fried aubergine in a very light batter, and a few chips. Better still, these were on the house - I assume there was enough profit with Stella at £E15. This hotel is very well recommended as a place to stay, away from all hassle, and the prices on the web site are still correct. After spending the early evening working on my email and updating the blog, I ate quite late at Africa, about 200 yards from my hotel. I like this rooftop restaurant at lunchtime, but there are better places in the evening, the view of the river and Luxor temple being spoilt by the many bright street lights. The picture here was taken at lunchtime in December 2009. They serve a fixed menu for £E55 - bread, salad, tahini, fried aubergine to start, then a chice of about 8 meat dishes served with potatoes, rice and vegetables, all oven cooked in individual clay pots. The meat today was disappointing - I had the Kabab Hala, I type of meat stew. I'm not sure that the beef, or was it donkey or camel, was well enough hung as it was a bit tough.
1 Comment
Angela
26/2/2011 11:47:34
I take it the complete set of photographs was taken by a well-meaning ba bird hoping to impress! Obviously digital cameras can be atime connected!
Reply
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