While it is almost certainly true that none of the businesses owned the Nile-side land and possibly did not pay for the appropriate licenses and taxes, the "authorities" have completely destroyed this part of Luxor. One or two places have a single dicker on the front of their shops, but there are no trees, no tables, no shade, and it is too far from the river to watch the wild-life.
On the positive side, they have improved the view from the villas and upstairs restaurants along this stretch, and by reducing the number of private businesses they have probably increased the takings of the larger hotels on the East Bank, and of the cruise boats. The shops that are left will lose 90% of their tourist trade as there will be no reason for visitors to walk this stretch except maybe to go to Gezira Gardens Hotel.
So I reluctantly headed for Hapy Habou. Unfortunately there were no signs of life - I hope that they have not closed completely. Maybe I just chose the wrong day or time.
Not to be defeated, I settled down at Ramsis café, which is right outside Medinet Habu temple. This is the place with the AUC bookshop, although even that looked depleted. Coca Cola Zero here comes in 250ml cans (I am used to 353ml elsewhere and in previous years) at EGP20 each. The dickers only have a rug rather than a cushion. No power outlet was available where I sat but I could probably have used one against the back wall. No Wi-Fi, either.
A small coach brought about 20 German-speakers for a quick drink and a salad (although most were eating their packed lunches, probably prepared from a breakfast buffet). A bit later a large coach brought about 40 guests. I suspect that they were Russians, although their leader was carrying the flag of Chile. They had a drink and a small meal - bread, chicken and salad.
Apart from a couple of cyclists, there were no other visitors all afternoon, except to use the bathroom. Two small flocks of sheep passed on the way to graze behind the police station. 2 camels, 2 horses and a donkey were about the only other passers-by apart from police, army and a steady flow of sightseers to the Temple. I stayed 3 hours before decamping to the Ramesseum Resthouse (RRH).
Followers of my Facebook page will know that I dined on Chef's Special Pizza at Fayrouz. The prices here seem to have gone up a small amount but with inflation at about 30% I was not surprised.